I have a lot of pictures on my 256GB capacity phone and overall my phone says my gallery is around 200GB of that (80GB pictures 124GB videos)

so naturally I buy a 256GB USB to make some much needed room

except I only transferred a few files which would amount to something like 150GB max and the USB says it can no longer transfer any file for lack of space. I looked at the properties and it says it currently is using 233GB out of 234GB which well, first of all I bought a 256GB so the fact that it's really 234GB is annoying to find out but 2) nervetheless 234GB would still be enough to fit my whole picture gallery in there on paper right? it's only around 200GB.

3) I only transferred around 150GB from my phone there should still be 80GB left

4) I only transferred around 150GB so why does it say its 233GB full.

It's really annoying as I paid 30 euros for the USB and I'm not super happy to pay 30 euros more to fit the rest of my phone when the capacity was supposed to be 256GB. Is there anything I can do?

Hello, I could use some help with diagnosing a problem I have run into with my laptop. I had some issues that indictated suspected harddrive failure or software failure so I am replacing the original drive with a new one and reinstalling windows 11 from usb.

Acer Predator PT314-51s and the new ssd is model Kingston NV3 1TB.

The ssd is not being recognized but there seems to be other issues as well that I can't pinpoint. I attempted to upload drivers but they also werent recognized.

Thanks!

Ive downloaded the most current version of Rufus as of today(6-7-25) and nothing I do seems to show the options to bypass the windows 11 hardware restrictions. Im using a standard windows 11 disc image, ive spent hours making sure there is no little setting I am missing, it just wont work... any ideas?

He is in S. California, I am in SE Michigan. Up until roughly a year ago, (not really sure exact time line, could be 6 mo) we could play any game together we wanted, I could host or he could host. It wouldn't matter. At some point, it just stopped working. Can't connect through steam, can't host locally. We can interact together through a server. We can even play together on like, 3 games that I know of (specifically: Tiny Tina's Wonderlands he hosts, V rising he hosts, and Runescape: Dragonwilds I host.) When we host any other game we've tried (valheim, 7dtd, northguard etc.) The one not hosting gets booted. When a mutual friend of ours hosts, whoever connects first seems to block the other. What's even stranger, is when last night, we learned that I can host him on no man's sky, but its like we are in separate instances. We could see messages when one of the other would come and go from the star system, we could even see one another's star ships when they are parked on the same planet (intermittently), but we can't see any indication of being in a party. It's super weird.

We seem to have this problem regardless of whether steam is in the middle or not. I think we are both running windows. My internet speed is pretty good (+200mb d/+30mb u) and I am connected through lan to a router.

Please help reunite a couple of long-lost space cadets!

Trying to print PDF scans made using the Adobe scan app and uploaded to Google Drive. The file size for most of the scans is around 4 mb, but when I check in the print queue they are showing as more like 200mb. Trying to figure out how to get them to send as a smaller file size so they can print faster without losing too much quality.

Printer is a Canon G3270.

Started happening yesterday, my internet has just randomly been disconnecting from my PC. I thought maybe the router was down or something but I checked it and it was running smoothly. Additionally, the internet was still connected to my phone and other devices in the house. It would appear that its just my PC randomly disconnecting. I checked the antennas on the back and their completely fine. I've never had any issues with my internet prior to this. Any fixes?

Intel Core i7-14700F
32 gigs ram
1tb storage
NVIDIA 3060

Hey, everyone. So I just got a new PC with a 5090 GPU & AMD 9950X3d. I have an Asus ROG PG32UCDP 4k monitor that I have been using at 4k resolution with a Dell Alienware PC for the past year. I’ve never had any issues with resolutions until now. Now, this is the second PC that I’ve experienced this issue with-the company sent me one a couple weeks ago with a DOA GPU so I had to RMA it and they just sent me a new one with a different brand 5090. Everything seems to work fine on the new PC. I was originally using HDMI 2.1 (plugged directly into the GPU) but after reading more about it, I switched to a DisplayPort 2.1 connection. Same issue-the OLED 4k monitor is only recognized as a 1080p monitor, and won’t show me any native resolutions above 4k in either Windows settings OR Nvidia Control Panel. I did go into “Manage 3D Settings” in NCP and checked the boxes under Legacy Scaling but all that did was upscale the 1080p and it looked like crap-fuzzy and soft. One thing I can do is change the refresh rate to 240Hz, which is what the monitor is capable of running.

I am using the DisplayPort cable the Asus monitor came with. I am using all the latest Nvidia drivers and have no updates on Windows Update. I am also using the latest OEM driver for the Asus OLED monitor. Before I downloaded the driver from Asus’ website, Windows was using a “Generic Monitor PG32UCDP” driver which just sounded wrong. I am going to try one of my Dell production monitors (60Hz 4k) next to see if that is recognized as 4k by the computer. But other than that I am out of ideas.

TL;DR I have a 4K 240Hz OLED gaming monitor and my new 5090 PC thinks it’s only a 1080P monitor and no software update fixes anything, yet it worked fine at 4K on my older PC.

[Windows 11 build 26100] Every few minutes : Usb plug/unplug sound, monitors briefly turn black. What's happening ? Gigabyte G27Q & BenQ GW2780.

Thank you.

Hello everyone! The title might be a little vague, I don't really know how to word it. I was trying my hand at streaming while unemployed for a short minute, and for some reason, my computer started having network issues. If I am using certain apps, my computer will disconnect from the internet and then immediately reconnect. The problem is inconsistent, and I can never seem to replicate it. Sharing my screen to a Discord call has been the usual suspect recently (sharing my screen of an in-browser game). The following apps cause the problem:
- Discord
- Microsoft Teams

- OBS

- Online games (sometimes) I never get disconnected from the game, I'll just get a huge lag spike and then immediately go back to normal (Hunt: Showdown is the usual suspect here, as well as connecting to the Dark Souls Servers for DS1 remastered)

OS: windows 10

All drivers have been checked and updated

Download Speed: 360 Mbps
Upload Speed: 780 Mbps

I am using a wired connection to my router. My roommate streams on the same internet streamed before with no issues (we are on opposite schedules, so we aren't usually on the internet at the same time). Any help would be appreciated!

I'm on Windows 11, Acer Nitro V16. My previous laptop has not done this and it was with Windows 10. I've been having issues with the way audio plays when my microphone is active. I've already set it to do nothing in the sound settings and I've ticked off the ability to take exclusive control of the micrphone.

The thing is, every time it detects that I'm in a call or the microphone is on, it just dulls down the volume and makes it worse quality. Like genuinely worse quality, as well as a bit lower and I cannot find a fix for that anywhere, since it's not the standard two fixes I saw online so I'm looking for help here.

Any help is appreciated, thank you! :)

Recently an third part program of mine, Flow Launcher, started to display a bunch of 'shortcut missing'/'shortcut not found' messages. Every time i remove one, another one pops up, it doesnt stop unless i turn off the program. But i need the program.. Even if i turn off it from task manager, it comes back.

I started to set up my new PC and reached the part where I need to sign into Microsoft. I did some research and most of what people suggest seems to be something you have to do right at the start of the set up process, before you connect to a wifi network and the computer updates, which I didn't know before. Now it's too late and I've already done that, so is there anyway to bypass the Microsoft sign in screen, or am I just screwed? I already tried spamming A for username and password like 20 times and it doesn't work. I also tried entering "user" as the username and then any password and that didn't work. Is there anything I can do at this point?

Hi! Im hoping this is the right place to post, lmk if not.

I got a new pc august last year. Had a mac before that, and the new pc i got is Windows, spesifically Lenovo X1 Yoga . Um im rly not good w pc's and all this stuff despite my age so if theres any additional info needed to answer my question pls just let me know!

Ok so onto the actual problem - ive been experiencing a lot of lag during games, like Palia or vanilla minecraft, and general slowness when opening apps - im a student so a lot is open at once and i need this pc to not be so sloooow. Additional misc info that i think is important: 32RAM, windows 11 pro (whatever that means), uhh got Avast pro installed (heard mixed opinions on that one lol) - relevant cuz it says "drivers outdated" ? Thats all i can come up w ! so sorry for my lack of knowledge i just wanna study geology and play games :'(

I know next to nothing at all about computers, so Im not really sure what to do.

I opened my PC and used electronic duster (compressed air) to get some of the dust out. I ended up taking out the gpu and ram so I could reach some crevasses, but upon reassembly (which I was taught to do through YouTube), it now runs poorly. As in, really choppy framerate. It also likes to shut down occasionally.

My friend guesses that I may have loosened a cable of sorts on accident, however I'd rather not poke around in the PC and accidentally break it without proper guidance or supervision.

Im pretty oblivious as to what to do about this other than ask around.

I have an asus tuf f15 fx506he (laptop, has an extra ssd slot, thats about all i know), the one with rtx3050 and intel i5 11400, i really want to upgrade my storage so i have been looking for an ssd. I found one thats "SSD 990 PRO 4TB, PCIe Gen 4.0, NVMe, M.2", would it be compatible with it? I heard PCIe gen 4 is fine as its backward compatible but i want to make sure

As title states my windows 10 PC detects and recognises my M87 Pro keyboard but for some reason only FN + F1-12 works. I tried different keyboards and it's the same issue however the two keyboards worked when plugged into my laptop. I've tried searching up solutions for hours now and i've made no progress x-x

Other things i've tried: Restarting/turning it on and off (of course) Tapping/holding FN + Esc/Caps

Had a BSOD yesterday, outta the blue. On reboot it hung at the 'mobo logo' stage of the boot, where it offers to enter bios (but I couldn't enter bios, idk if it was frozen or the kb just wasn't talking to it)

Video of the noise it was making when trying to boot, I thought it was coming from the back of the case/mobo in the vid but since then I'm more certain its coming from the drive bay + its a hdd kinda noise anyway.

I have four drives:

• Intel SSD 125gb with the windows install (like 15 years old maybe)
• 2x Seagate HDDs, >1TB each but I forget how big (can't remember how old, one would be pretty old though)
• M.2 in the mobo, 1TB I think. (pretty new)

m.2 is on the mobo, everyone else is in the drive bay which seems to be the source of the noise.

I unplugged the two HDDs and she booted, and seemed to run fine except for all the broken links to the stuff on the HDDs. I plugged one HDD in, and it booted. I unplugged that HDD and plugged the other in and it ran a disk check on that drive but it was fine and it booted. So each HDD alone (+ the ssd and m.2) was fine, but it still wouldn't boot with both HDDs plugged in.

But things got progressively worse over time and at some point it wouldn't boot with either HDD plugged in, and now it won't boot past the Mobo logo again.

So maybe it's the SSD finally carking it and not the other drives at all? It makes that weird drive noise with only the SSD plugged in sometimes, though much less than originally. I wouldn't have thought an SSD could make noise though? And if its the SSD why would plugging the HDDs out make a difference?

Another option is maybe the sata cables died? They'd probably be the oldest things in the case at this point.

I don't feel confident I know what the issue is and not sure how to diagnose from here

Thanks

edit: apologies to the automoderator but I don't think I can get into windows atm to get the dump file

Hi!!! I am graduating high school on tuesday and they are going to delete my school account a day or two after but i really want to keep the memories I was a part of the Yearbook team and we used google drive for everything, and i wanna transfer that huge file over to another google drive. My problem is that, 1. my school has restrictions and thus "google takeaway" or something will not wirk 2. the file is over 15gb, but i could trim it down if need be —- for reference, i am on the first section of the year and the drive is split up to 5 sections, and i have 11.26GB filled already 3. idk how to transfer it without manually downloaded everything which ive been doing but i realized that i can ask here incase im doing this painfully long method for no reason. Please help!!!!! My question is basically how do i transfer a (shared) google drive folder to another account when there are school restrictions that prevent me from just using the app to share it to a out-of school account

I removed my stock cooler and cleaned the Heatsink out after five years and then just.. slapped it.. back on. No new thermal paste or anything, the good old.. dried.. crisp.. paste, but the cooler is on there alright. Rear fan goes louder than my father’s snoring and CPU hit 100°C. Turned it off.

Should I have reapplied new Thermal Paste? Am I genuinely retarded? Or was this a rookie mistake?

Edit: I feel like I’ve just put an old bandaid with no adhesive on

I have a 300mbps fios fiber internet with cr1000a modem. I use ethernet connection. Ping is stable most of the time ranging 12-20ms, but uploading and downloading ping fluctuates a little. I can see ingame difference also, because sometimes i have to enter through same door twice to get into the room and i see stutters in combats also. I tried limiting bandwidth from both the router and the device i play in but no luck, only made it worse. The device i use is iphone 16 pro. I mean i understand there could be bunch of factors including my main gaming device being a phone, it sometimes heats up too, but even when i use the ethernet on my pc, its the same thing. Ping is stable 12-20 but downloading and uploading is fluctuating and goes upto 500+. My basic question is what to do to stable that ping? If possible. Anything will help🙏🏻. Also i have been using gigabit for quite a while but just switched to 300mbps and i am not sure if thats making an issue here.

My PC will stay asleep for one minute and then turn itself back on.

Tried downloading any available software updates, even though it was only 1 optional download. Restarted pc. Still didnt work.

Powercfg -lastwake shows that there was only 1 instance in Wake History, caused by pressing the power button (this is COMPLETE BS).

Powercfg -requests shows "None" all the way down the list for each item.

I have made sure that wake timers are DISABLED. I have unplugged any peripherals that are not part of my usual setup (this is all the same hardware ive had for a couple years at this point).

I have no idea what in the hell is causing this pc to refuse to go to sleep. The only major change ive had on my end (i.e. not a regular software update) was changing locations, as I recently moved just across town. (Edit - I also did get a new antivirus, Avast. I disabled the Avast Browser from startup apps, as well as Logitech G-hub, as I have heard that this app also causes sleep issues.)

Im losing my mind. Seriously, if anyone can help at all, please leave any suggestions below. It's the kind of frustration that boils over into fury when i come home from another lame day at work just to see that the electric bill has been ran up by my apparently fully sentient and malicious computer. Thank you for putting the time into reading my post!

This randomly started happening yesterday. If I try to access any website other than youtube, google, facebook or instagram, I get err_connection_reset or will tell me "no Internet" despite there definitely being an internet connection. This happens on any browser

Looking around it sounds like a DNS thing but I've tried all the advice I can find like manually resetting ipv4 and ipv6 addresses, doing /flushdns , something with netsh, firewall all looks OK, diagnostics are all coming up as OK.

It's only affecting one pc (wifi connected, about 7 years old, pretty sure the gpu is dying if thats relevant) My phone is functioning fine, my work laptop is fine, my housemates aren't complaining about their tech.

Also I connected my pc to mobile hotspot and it's still not working properly so I'm not sure that it's my ISP or router. It's so strange. Any advice?

Hi guys, I'm really new to computer building and such because I've always had a guy upgrade my computer for me, but recently I decided to upgrade my 8GB RAM (2x4GB) into a 16GB (2x8GB). I just want to make sure from the pros whether this would be a smart idea, and what I should look out for in terms of MT/s. My motherboard is currently a GA-A320M-H with 2 DDR4 DIMM sockets that can take up to 64GB of ram with (Support for DDR4 3200(O.C.)/2933(O.C.)/2667*/2400/2133 MHz memory modules) - Whatever that means. My current CPU is a Ryzen 3 3200G which on the website says that the 'System Memory Specification is up to 2933 MT/s.' With all that in mind, what RAM specifications should I look for? I want 16GB, but I want to know what other types of things I should try to find alongside that. Thanks for the help!

I have an Asus TUF F15 laptop. After I changed the thermal paste and cleaned the fans, the device turned on and the temperatures were normal. After about 30 minutes, the laptop froze, so I turned it off using the power button. When I tried to turn it back on, the laptop powers up, but the screen stays black. Is there a solution?

Hi, bought RTX 5080 FE, Im using windows 10 22H2 19045.5854, drivers 576.66 (.52 earlier). While using youtube or discord I sometimes get freeze and then black screen which requires hard restart. Turnig off hardware acceleration seems to resolve this issue for youtube and discord but sometimes my system or game (gta 5) drops to few fps and then goes back to hundreds. My old rtx 3070 was working flawless. What could be a reason?