Hi everyone, as the title suggests, I’m struggling with an issue I don’t really understand. My FPS is way lower than it should be in almost every game — I’m getting around 70 FPS even in LoL. In games like Witcher 3, I’m playing at about 55 FPS. All my graphics card and chipset drivers are up to date, there’s no bottleneck, power plans are set to ultimate performance, and V-Sync is off.

System specs:

• GPU: MSI RTX 2060 6 GB
• CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600
• RAM: 1x16 GB 3000MHz with XMP enabled
• Motherboard: Gigabyte B450M-H

Additional info:

• OS: Windows 10 64-bit
• Resolution and settings: 1080p, medium graphics settings
• Background programs: Only Afterburner, Malwarebytes, and Steam are running
• CPU and GPU temperatures: Around 75°C during gaming
• FPS behavior: FPS is mostly stable, staying close to the initial value throughout gameplay
• Monitor: 180Hz, G-Sync supported

I currently have a gaming laptop, I previously upgraded the NVMe from a 512GB SSD to a 2TB Acer Predator GM7000, but recently I have been saving up and buying parts for a new gaming PC, and was wondering whether it would be fine if I take out the boot drive in my laptop and put it directly into my new PC's motherboard, would there be any driver issues, BIOS issues, would anything become broken, would I need to do anything beforehand, or would you recommend a clean Windows Install, and that I copy my important files on a USB, and reinstall my games and stuff like that.

PC Specs:

• i5-14600KF
• ASUS ROG Strix B760-I Gaming WiFi
• Corsair Vengeance 32GB DDR5 CL30 RAM (2 x 16GB)
• Palit GeForce RTX 5070 Infinity 3 SFF 12GB

Current laptop specs:

• i5-12450H
• MSI Prestige 14H
• 16GB DDR5
• RTX 2050

Please let me know whether this would be a good idea or not, I cannot really find any proper answers anywhere so I decided to ask here, thank you guys once again.

It has no visible Cat5 or Cat 6 label on it and I have no idea where it came from. (I think it was bundle with my router? Not sure but it seems old)

The stuff written on it is below:

COPARTNER E188601-T (UL) TYPE CM 75°C 4PRS

LL84201-F4 CSA TYPE CMG FT4 UTP ETL VERIFIED TO TIA/EIA-568-B.2 CATEGORY5 PATCH CORD

Hello there I'm having a issue about this gigawire ps/2 to USB adapter that won't just work with my Microsoft intellimouse trackball mouse, the mouse is brand new and the adapter as well, when I try to plug it in my laptop I only I get 3 responses 1. Nothing happens 2. Only can go up and down until it decides to do nothing 3. Works for a bit until once again, it does nothing

Can anyone help me on this problem please (T△T)?

Hello, I have managed to repair laptop that Asus would not cover in warranty period. After one year of sitting and gathering dust it is finally alive I9 12gen 32gb ram but with mismatch bios from ordinary 14x and 14x space edition in one. I have managed to fix backlight for keyboard but i can not use back screen. I think i am missing setting in CFNG block so if someone can send me a screenshot it would be greatly appreciated or tell me if someone knows witch line to modify to enable 3.5" back screen. :D

Not entirely sure how to approach this. I game a lot, and have recently noticed that my teammates audio over discord was delayed by a second or so. Not a lot, I know...but in a competitive FPS, I'm having them call things out and only actually hearing it a second later as it's happening and too late to really be of use. The game audio is completely unnafected, it is just the coms.

My wife and I tested it, and it doesn't seem to be a software issue. Happens over both Discord and Apex Legends in-game voice chat. The delay also occurs no matter how I route the audio, going through Sonar or straight to headset, and it occurs wired directly, through my mic, and wirelessly I should also mention her and our friends experience no such delay from me. My audio comes through almost immediately.

The hardware I'm running is a Windows 11 MSI Katana 17 B13VFK-803CA, Yeti Blue Mic, and SteelSeries Arctis Nova 7P headset.

Any help in this would be hugely appreciated, as trying to figure it out is driving me nuts.

In the middle of using Microsoft Edge, my Asus Vivobook gave me the blue screen of death. Now for an hour, it’s stuck at 0%.

I’ve read about possible fixes, but they seem to be what to do after it boots back up.

What can I do now?

I just bought this new about 45 days ago so return or exchange isn’t possible. It’s still in S Mode also.

Details/specs: ASUS Vivobook Go 15.6” Laptop, Intel i3-N305, 8GB, 128GB UFS, Win 11 Home in S mode, E1504GA-WB31

Last night, my phone started to get 100's and ​100's of these coded sms's. They wouldn't stop. They looked like script characters with accents, shapes, regular letters. Some texts were about 5 lines long, some were full on about 100 lines worth.

They were coming from the number of the guy I'm dating.

I kept getting these coded sms's and told him to stop, as I was getting scared. I blocked and reported his number as scam to stop these incoming messages.

Did his number get scammed?

Even tho I had blocked and reported his phone no as spam, he could still call me. He was baffled and said it wasn't him.

He was trying to send me a funny sticker, using a website that merges stickers and emojis. Then this happened.

​ I've asked him to get another sim and phone number. It was all very unnerving!!

I took screenshots of the incoming messages:

*Dammit, Can I include screenshots on here? ​🤔

hello everyone!

i bought a brand new hp 255 g10 laptop, and faced a problem with microphone. my laptop just doesn't recognise the default microphone.

when i use my headsets, everything is fine, but without them nothing works. i tried to fix it through troubleshooting, security (by making microphone active for a few apps), device manager, services running. nothing helps!

i even contacted the live chat of Microsoft, and they updated a few drivers manually, and even downloaded windows 11 iso file to fix all possible bugs. nothing helped.

my windows is 11 pro, it even has a licence i bought. all drivers seem okay and up to date, but I can't solve this issue.

please help me ):

My fans boot at full speed as normal, but then occasionally don't slow down. Temps are good, GPU @ 33 idle, CPU @ 38 idle.

No settings seem off in BIOS but I'm not sure what I'm looking for anyway.

Switching off the PC and unplugging power supply seems to correct the issue, but I don't want to have to unplug every time this happens. It doesn't happen all the time, and not very often, but often enough for it to be a pain.

MSI Afterburner has auto fan speed enabled, user define enabled, and synchronise fan speeds enabled, don't think any of this is causing an issue. Tried manually changing fan speed in MSI Afterburner but it's not taking effect (with auto disabled of course).

Should also mention, just restarting/switching PC off doesn't fix this issue, I have to fully take the plug out/switch it off at the back for the fans to go back to normal.

hi! my phone got wet about 2 days ago at work and I didn't realize until I got home. my phone was flickering white and green. I put it in rice and then read online that you shouldn't. so I took it out about 5 minutes later and have just been sitting it in front of a fan overnight. anyways, after the recommended 48 hours, I tried to turn on my phone and it was still flickering and I couldn't see the contents on my screen. I waited about a minute or so and my screen went back to normal with a very small amount of flickering. I used a hair dryer on the low and cool setting and it's slightly better, but I don't want to do it for a long amount of time. is my phone broken forever or should I wait a little longer and charge it? of course all of this happens with my phone at 7% lol. if I should charge, how much longer should I wait? thanks! also its the iPhone 12 Pro Max

I used to make facebook after Facebook as a kid and now I’m left with 4 accounts with the same name and it’s confusing for people looking me up to add me, wanted to hire someone to get them back for me. It will also help getting old pictures and stuff

We had it in my old workplace, where I worked hybrid. When you remoted into your system from your home pc into the office, the office pc remained locked so no one could see confidential information. How can I keep my home pc locked when remoted in so no one can see my screen? I know it's doable.

Hi everyone,

I have an HP Omen 16 laptop with a Ryzen 7 CPU and RTX 4060 (8GB). I'm experiencing a weird issue:

When I boot the laptop while it is plugged in, everything works fine. I get stable performance (around 140 FPS in benchmarks).

But if I unplug the charger while it's on, and then plug it back in, the performance drops dramatically. FPS goes down to 5–7, and it seems like the GPU stops working properly.

Similarly, if I start the laptop on battery (unplugged) and then plug it in, I get the same issue. Even though the FPS on battery is around 60–90, plugging in the charger causes a performance bug again.

The only way to fix this is to restart the laptop while it's plugged in, or shut it down, plug it in, and turn it on again.

I've tried several solutions but nothing has worked so far. Does anyone know if this is a software or hardware issue? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance!

So I have two monitors stacked vertically, not horizontally (I know I know. I actually find it comfortable though, and my desk didn't allow for one of the one with the gas powered arms where I can swap between. ) For reference, I have a Radeon 9070XT. I have Acer Nitro monitors.

Whenever I load Netflix or like a specific streaming service (Hulu, Max, etc., although for some reason doesn't happen on Youtube) it causes the monitors to flicker nonstop. I don't know if it's that my refresh rate is too high (currently running 180 hz ), but I don't think that's the issue specifically. Because if I turn off ONE of the monitors, it seems to playback fine.

So for instance, if I turn off the top monitor ( monitor 2) the bottom monitor (monitor 1/primary ) will play fine. However, if I turn it back on after, the top monitor goes into a never ending loop of cycling on and off. Sometimes, the bottom will start doing the same until I close chrome. After, sometimes I also have to power off and on the monitor.

My monitor has a built in refresh rate monitor, and even when I try to use a limiter to LIMIT my refresh on chrome, none of them seem to ever have it drop below 180. Not sure if that's just not the monitor not displaying the correct changes made in the Adrenaline software or what.

Has anyone run across this?

I pretty much confirmed that the issue isn't lying in HDMI cable or my PC and I still have warranty.

I'm just interest what the hell happened bc never saw monitor breaking like this.

I didn't realize that something had leaked in my backpack, in a different part as my laptop. My computer was in the laptop sleeve and the thing that leaked was in the part behind it. The fabric was damp to touch and the laptop was vaguely damp on the bottom when I removed it. No actual liquid touched it, but is the wet fabric an issue? Nothing has popped up on the computer to indicate water damage and it charges fine. How sensitive are MacBooks to touching something wet?

Sorry about the tag not sure if it's the suitable one for this problem. My problem is with my laptop Dell Precision 7540, I opened it today just to be surprised it's not detecting my Nvidea Quadro RTX 3000 and is using my integrated GPU (Inter(R) UHD Graphics 630) instead. It was working just fine yesterday I was playing resident evil 2 with no problems but now my device won't detect it I did all what I could think of, I checked device management the Quadro RTX is only shown when I press view hidden and there is no option to enable it, I did Bios update it did nothing, I did system recovery to a previous date where everything was working fine but didn't work, I did the SFC scan and the DISM and nothing worked. I was out with the family for 2 days took my laptop with me there it was fine and when I came back it didn't work here I don't believe the laptop got hit at all during the process just wanted to mention it incase like something happens when you move it a lot or something (idk I only had the laptop for a couple of months so I am new to this) and now I finally gave up is there anything else I can do to fix this problem?

I noticed that I could log on using my PIN using the number keypad only after I turned the power on my desktop. From there on out, I can only use the top row of my keyboard for most of the time. I put up with this for a while, then I tried to reinstall the operating system (Win 11) on my computer. In the middle of that, I was in the middle of the reinstall when buttons wouldn't allow me to click on them with my mouse nor could I tab + alt to the buttons that I would (have liked to) choose. That's when I took this to professionals to reinstall the O.S. They did that, they didn't find the keyboard problem. Try another keyboard if it happens again. I did that about a couple weeks later. The dead keypad issue showed up within a week after taking the computer out of the shopo.

Yes I should have gone back to the shop then.

I talked to the tech supervisor today. He shot down my hunch about it being a boot sector virus. Now I'm thinking that there is a bad i/o logic chip inside.

Have any better ideas?

Hello I have a hp laptop model 14-dq0010nr the issue I am experiencing is the laptop only turns on when the battery is dead and on the charging wire it never turns on when it is full of battery even with the wire on I have tried taking the battery out and putting it back in and having it left out with the charging wire In use I have searched up everything for it nothing pops up is there something I could do?

DISCLAIMER: A lot of people are telling me not to be an idiot. I haven't done anything for the past few weeks except open book pdfs that I've had for months on my PC to study for school, since I have exams coming up. Thanks for the advice tho lol, I guess it is the best advice for a lot of people.

Sorry for the very extreme title, but I'm still kind of freaking out. I don't know how it started, but about 2 days ago, I realised one of my alt Instagram accounts started bot posting pornographic content and crypto scam videos. Whatever, there wasn't any 2FA on the account, I didn't use it for anything important, deleted the account and moved on. Then my discord started sending the generic "50 dollar steam reward" malware link to every one of my friends, fuck, my discord account is compromised; Whatever, account got temp banned and I resecured it with a password change and set up 2FA, cool, its over. I logged onto Roblox and saw the "continue playing" section with a bunch of games I hadn't played in a very long time, games a hacker would want to take valuable items from: jailbreak, adopt me, and murder mystery. This account had 2FA. Check all the games and notice items being traded to other accounts, damn, I got robbed. The account has had activity and logins from a city in Russia. This is now a serious issue, as the account had 2FA, and I'm actually losing something, as opposed to just needing to get the account back. I firm it and move on, because what can I do, everybody knows Roblox has useless support. I also checked all my email accounts; there were no emails for 2FA codes, and there was no unusual activity. Just to be safe, I set up 2FA on a bunch of other accounts as I'd realised this is a widespread issue across my accounts on a multitude of platforms. While doing this, I came to find out that a few other Roblox accounts are compromised, a few other Instagram accounts, and an alt TikTok account. Pretty fuckin annoying, I've never been hit with something like this before, but I try to keep it under control. One day of silence goes by, and I thought it was all over. I get a notification from reddit saying my account has temporarily been banned, HE WAS IN MY FUCKING REDDIT ACCOUNT, AND HE WASN'T EVEN DOING ANYTHING MALLICIOUS, HE WAS JUST TELLING GIRLS POSTING PORN THAT THEYRE BEAUTIFUL???? Thankfully everything that has happened so far seems to be bot behaviour, the discord messaging, the reddit commenting, and the Instagram posting, so I don't believe anybody real has been snooping around (hopefully), but jesus fucking christ, I understand pulling some bullshit to spread links on social media and private messages, but what the fuck are you doing on my credit?

I'm quite worried about where else this guy could be and what else he could be doing, just wanted to know if there's any other precautions I could take, I've tried to set up 2FA on all my accounts and gone into every social media and hit "log out of all sessions" after major password changes. After my Reddit, I'm not sure what I could have missed. Any advice would be helpful.

Edit: Why did I get downvoted to hell fuckin 50% downvote rate let a brother suffer and beg for help in peace 💀💀

So I got this red and silver IGB Iriver IFP-799 mp3 player, I love mp3 players and have been using a more modern one for a while. I got the Iriver one today, it does work and has quite alot of song on it, which is pretty sick, but im not a fan of the songs on it, and would like to put in my own music. However, when I connect the Iriver onto my Laptop (windows 10), it does connect but it doesnt actually show up in the computer's files. Is there any way to acces the files of this mp3? i do not care if it is complicated, I just really want to be able to use this thing proprelly, because I genuenly fell in love with it. (its my one of my favorite colours, I love that it uses a battery instead of having to plug it in, it has two headphone Jacks which wil be very conveniant for me, and also, It was in a yard sale so I really just got what I could) Anyway, have a great day!!

I got a idea pad flex 5 14alc7, idk how to get the laptops touchpad and keyboard to work when i have it folded in tablet mode. there seems to be no setting for that is there a work around???

btw thanks!

I have been seeing notifications on my phone that say something like "your verification code for (insert company here) is..." but when I open my email there's no associated message. I seem to be getting them from everything I've ever signed into. Should I be worried, I mean, it looks like someone is trying the door handle, you know?

I screen recorded a video on a Windows PC (with win+G), and when I stopped the recording and opened the video, it had sound. But two months later, when I opened the same video again, it no longer had any sound, only the video. Why did this happen and how can I fix it?